Hogenakkal water fall is definitely one of the most popular weekend getaway from Bangalore. The last time I went there was sometime in rainy season in 2004. We terribly loved the place, but the only thing bothered us was the crowd. It was unbelievably crowdy that time. This is the reason why I never thought of going back to the place in years. Finally the day came when we took a sudden decision at around 12 O’ clock Friday night to visit a place. And this time we agreed for
Hogenakkal(AKA Hoganikal). We usually fail to plan for a weekend trip long before and usually decisions are taken within hours. But from our past bad experiences this time we were wise enough to sleep as soon as possible and then wake up early in the morning.
So we finally started our journey at around 8 0′ clock in the morning from Bangalore in my Swift in this first weekend of Novemeber 2008. Me the only driver as always! We decided to leave the city first had our break fast in a restaurant just crossing infosys, electronic city in the Hosur road. A proper break fast and a tea gave us all the energy for the trip. So I started driving swiftly towards Krishnagiri which is a pretty familiar road to me. The road is as smooth as butter and you don’t have to put any effort to reach a speed more than 100-120 km/hr. There are two three way to reach from Bangalore to Hogenakkal. But the most comfortable and safe one with a car via Krishnagiri – Dharmapuri. With a small halt near Krishnagiri for a photo session, we directly stopped at Dharmapuri to pack some food for our lunch. There is dhaba just entering the road to Dharmapuri from NH-7 and I remebered packing food from the same dhaba four years back in the same trip of Hogenakkal. You also carried
some liquid energy from a shop adjacent to the Dhaba! Then we proceed directly towards Hogenakkal which was just 50 km from there. It’s bi-lane road, but in good condition. I saw many dhaba newly opening up while nearing Hogenakkal.
Hogenakkal water falls are inside a reserve forest with the same name is well protected. You will have to pay entry fee to the forest department in a check post around 10 km away from the falls.
It’s around 12:30 at noon when reached the small establishment of Hogenakkal. We used the pay and park area for parking and bought some water, cold drinks, etc. Then the next step was to hire a boat, coracle, to be precise. Magnificent Hogenakkal water falls are created while Kaveri flows through two rocky steep hills lik walls. These two tall rocky sides give way to the Kaveri and also flow water into the river creating many giant and angry water falls. The circular local boats carry tourists in the kaveri between these rocks providing a closer view to the falls. Then the boatmen take the tourists to a open plain area where river broadens and meets from two directions. So we looked for a boatman. There were already two following us from the parking area. The rates seemed to be very high compared to last time (inflation!!). But lots of argument one agreed to show us all the falls properly and unlimited time stay in the open picnic spot at around 150 bucks per head.
It was relief for me when I saw number of tourists are significantly lower than last time. We had enough space to enjoy our time. I assume this may be because of a dry season of Novemeber with less water in the falls. Whatever may be the reason I was very happy.
To reach the main falls we had to cross a small river in the coracle first and then walk down around half a km in a proper concrete road. There is a steep staircase at the end of the road which will take you down to the main river. The boatman carries his coracle till to this point on his shoulders.
The real fun starts here. The water flow was pretty high even in the winter season. The boat flows with the water though the wall like rocks on both sides. We were surrounded by giant water falls. The boatmen told us the depth of the river to be 90 feet at that point.
One interesting thing which you will always find is small boys diving down to the river from 60 feet high rock walls just for 10 bucks. They will jump from the tall rock and swim to your boat to collect the money. They carries the money in their mouth without wetting it in the water. This time we found two of them jumping down. One of them was so small in age that he got very tired and almost drowning while reaching the boat. His fellow boy helped him to reach the shore. I felt real pity on them!
You will find mobile shops on the river. These are nothing but people selling snacks, cold drinks on a coracle. But it looks unique!
We gradually came out of the walls and then into the open world. There were some islands in the river as the water level was low in this part but the river broadens to many times. We were taken to a corner shore and the boatmen created a shade out of his coracle on the ground. The water was very clear and was hardly two to three feet deep.
We had no time but jump into the fresh water. The boatman brought us delicious fresh fried fish, I don’t remember how many I had but still feel the taste! We didn’t realize how time moved swimming, diving, playing with water. We came out of the river only when it was around 5 O’clock and the sunset was nearing.
We packed our things quickly and sat back to the coracle for the return journey. The return journey takes more time as it is against the flow. The boatman had to struggle against the flow and it was completely dark when reached the point we started. It was horribly beauiful experience when there was none around but only the bolting sound of heavy water falls could be heard!
It was a real hard work for the boatman, so we gave him some tips and then walked towards the parking. We were very hungry and ordered
some idly, omlette in a small ‘thelawala’(wheeler) shop. But believe me, it was amazingly tasty. We all had one more plates of each plates and also packed some fried fish for the reaturn journey.
I was too tired, but had to drive back 170 km to Bangalore. Wwere in sad mood to say goodbye to the silent Hogenakkal, it was around 7:30 when left it. We turned back for the last time to find some lights of flickering lamps of small shops, grave sound of Kaveri along with our sweet memories of few hours!
(This is copied from my old blog. This trip was made in 2008)




